In September 2024, Earth’s Edge content creator Ari made her first trip to Nepal to trek to the iconic Everest Base Camp! These diaries follow her journey from Dublin to the famous trails of the Khumbu – a truly unforgettable adventure!
In Part 3, the group encounters heavy snowfall on the way to Lobuche …
Day 6: Trekking to Pheriche + Pangboche Monastery Visit
The next morning, after packing our duffle bags and preparing our daypacks, we sat down for breakfast. I had a delicious bowl of porridge and some Tibetan bread with jam, a sweet start to the day! The skies were overcast, and visibility wasn’t the best, but spirits were high as we set off on the trail. A few members of the team were feeling the effects of altitude sickness, but our expedition doctor, Dr. Mark, was keeping a close eye on everyone, offering advice and support.
The drizzle started again, but it didn’t dampen our enthusiasm. The rolling green hills and scattered tea houses below us created an incredible view. It was truly a feast for the eyes! During the trek, we caught our first sighting of some yaks grazing below the trail. We paused at a local village for a tea and snack break, where we had the chance to visit the Pangboche Monastery, one of the oldest in the region, dating back to the 16th century. The monastery was beautifully painted, adorned with prayer flags, Buddhist iconography of different deities, mandalas, and prayer wheels. The intricate hand-painted motifs in the courtyard left me in awe. I was so impressed by the level of craftsmanship and detail.
Some of the group paid to enter the monastery and light a candle inside. After a quick toilet break and finishing our teas, we hit the trail again, crossing small streams and suspension bridges along the way. Lunch consisted of a freshly made potato omelette, some veggies, and pasta. Another filling and delicious meal, exactly what we needed to continue our journey.
Night 6: Tea House In Pheriche
As we continued towards Pheriche, the rain started to pick up, but we were well-prepared, having packed our waterproofs in our daypacks. The atmosphere felt wild, with dogs and horses roaming freely – it was an exhilarating feeling, being truly in the wilderness. When we finally arrived in Pheriche and settled into our spacious tea house, we were greeted with hot tea and biscuits.
The rest of the evening was spent relaxing, reading, and chatting with the team. Dinner was comforting, with a warming soup, dhal bat, and vegetable spring rolls. The perfect end to a long day of trekking. I crawled into bed that night with a full stomach and a sense of accomplishment, ready for another day on the trail.
Day 7: Exploring Pheriche + Acclimatisation Hike
The next morning, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of French toast topped with maple syrup and porridge with fresh fruit. Although it was drizzling lightly, we didn’t let the weather slow us down. We set off for our acclimatisation hike above Pheriche village, taking it slow and steady as we ascended. With each step, the air grew thinner, making it essential to stay hydrated and maintain a steady pace. We took frequent water breaks, mindful of the altitude, and after about two hours of hiking, the clouds rolled in, obscuring the view from the ridge above the village. After a short snack break, we made our way back down to the tea house.
The rest of the day was ours to explore and relax. Pheriche is a small village, but it has a few shops and a bakery. There was a free lecture at the Pheriche Medical Centre where doctors provided a helpful talk on avoiding altitude sickness, the signs to watch for, and what to do if you experience symptoms. Later that evening, our expedition leader Arjun and Dr. Mark kicked off a chess tournament that would continue throughout the rest of our trek!
Day 8: Snow On The Trail To Lobuche
The following morning, we woke to find snow falling heavily outside, and the morning air was bitterly cold. The stove in the tea house was already lit, providing essential warmth as we prepared for breakfast. We held off starting the day’s trekking, waiting for the snow to ease up a bit. Eventually, we set off at 9:30am. The temperature dropped, and I could really feel the chill in my bones. With my liner gloves, warm layers, and rain jacket, I tried to stay warm as we trekked through the snow-covered landscape, which, while beautiful, was quite slushy underfoot. The trek started with a steep climb to the ridge above Pheriche. After about three hours in these conditions, we stopped for lunch in Dughla. There, we enjoyed a hearty meal of rice, potatoes, egg, and vegetables, before tackling a long ascent to reach the memorials honouring climbers who lost their lives climbing Mt. Everest.
The final stretch was relatively flat and took us right into Lobuche. By the time we arrived, we were cold and wet, but the stove inside our tea house was burning brightly, and we immediately gathered around it to dry off. My gloves were soaked through, and my shoes were no better, but the warmth from the fire was a relief. The rest of the evening was spent warming up, playing some competitive rounds of Jenga and UNO, and enjoying a filling dinner before heading to bed for the night.
Day 9: Unexpected Snow Day On Our Everest Base Camp Trek!
The following morning, we were greeted once again with heavy snowfall, so much so that it was deemed unsafe to continue our trek to Base Camp that day. Our expedition leader briefed us on the situation, explaining the dangers of deep snow and the risks to both our team and the porters who would be carrying our gear. We waited for a while to see if the snow would let up, but as it continued to fall heavily, we decided to take a snow day in the tea house. The snow piled up relentlessly, and neighbouring tea houses had to shovel snow off their roofs to prevent damage. I don’t think I have ever seen so much snow in my life!
Despite the weather, spirits remained high among our group. We found ways to pass the time by playing multiple rounds of UNO, building card towers, completing crosswords, and reading. The snow seemed to have a peaceful, almost magical quality as it fell outside, and we made the best of it, enjoying each other’s company in the warmth of the tea house.
Stay tuned for Part 4!
