In September 2024, Earth’s Edge content creator Ari made her first trip to Nepal to trek to the iconic Everest Base Camp! These diaries follow her journey from Dublin to the famous trails of the Khumbu – a truly unforgettable adventure!
In Part 4, the team sets out to reach Everest Base Camp!
Day 10: Lobuche To Gorakshep – A Postcard Morning
The next morning we awoke to the most breathtaking sight. The sky was a brilliant, pure blue, and the snow-capped peaks, which had been hidden by clouds the day before, stood majestic and powerful, blanketed in snow. It was like something out of a postcard, and I could hardly believe how beautiful it was. After breakfast, we grabbed our poles and headed out of the tea house. The amount of snow that had fallen in just over a day was staggering, and although it was slippery in places, we followed the path created by a previous group ahead of us as we began our trek towards Gorakshep.
This day was another one of my favourites on the trail. The landscape around us was absolutely stunning, and the snow-covered surroundings made everything feel like a winter wonderland. I couldn’t stop smiling as we trekked slowly but steadily, making sure no one injured themselves in the deep snow. The guides even showed us how to create little shapes and animal tracks in the snow! I spent most of the day at the front of the group with Sumann, chatting with him and getting to know him and our other guides better. They set a slow, steady pace, ensuring we all kept moving safely.
Gorakshep – Last Stop Before Everest Base Camp!
When we finally arrived in Gorakshep, the village was bustling with trekkers, as it was the last stop before Everest Base Camp. We were thrilled to find cold fizzy drinks available to quench our thirst! We enjoyed a big lunch of potatoes, noodles, and vegetables – carbs were a must to restore our energy levels after a day moving through snowfall like that. After a short rest, I went out to explore Gorakshep as it was a gorgeous day. The sun was shining, and the snow looked even more beautiful in the bright light.
Leader Arjun responded so calmly and quickly to these weather conditions, adjusting the itinerary to ensure that we could still experience as much of the “original plan” as possible. Adventure travel is, by definition, unpredictable, so it’s best to just go with the flow – that way you can enjoy every moment, even those that come as a surprise!
Later that afternoon, he gave us the option to climb Kala Patthar for incredible views of Everest and surrounding peaks, earlier than the group would have normally. A few members, including myself, opted to rest, while others bravely ventured out. Unfortunately, the snow was so deep that the team wasn’t able to make it to the top of Kala Patthar, but they still enjoyed breathtaking views on the way up. That evening, we all had dinner together, and our Arjun briefed us on what to expect for the following day.
Day 11: On Our Way To Everest Base Camp!
The next morning, we set off for Base Camp. The trek was tricky, with deep snow in places and icy patches where the sun hadn’t yet melted it. I struggled at times, as it was exhausting having to be so mindful of every step to avoid injury. It was definitely a mentally challenging day.
Unfortunately, due to the heavy snowfall, we were unable to make it all the way to Base Camp. I won’t lie. The entire team was disappointed. We got so close, but it would have been too dangerous to continue. Instead, we made our way up to a small ridge where we were rewarded with breathtaking 360° panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. It was absolutely incredible, and much more than a consolation prize. We took a second to soak in the entirety of our journey so far, and to congratulate ourselves on how far we had come, even through unexpected hardship. After taking some stunning photos, we headed back to Gorakshep for lunch.
Descent From Everest Base Camp
It was going to be a long day. We had to trek all the way back to Pheriche from Gorakshep in order to make up for the snow delay in Lobuche. After lunch, we set off along the snowy trail. The weather was wonderful, but the path had become slushy and slippery from all of the foot traffic over the past few days. This was, without a doubt, the toughest day of the expedition for me. As night fell, the temperature dropped, and we pulled out our head torches to continue trekking. The day felt endless. We had been walking for nearly ten hours.
As it got darker, my eyes started to sting badly. By the time we reached our tea house, I could barely open them – I realised I had snow blindness. I had worn my sunglasses all day and kept my buff up, but somehow, I still managed to be afflicted. Dr. Mark helped me to my room and put in some eye drops, which instantly relieved the pain. It was such a sharp and specific discomfort, unlike anything I had ever experienced. After a light dinner, I went to bed early, knowing a long rest would help heal my eyes.
Day 12: Trekking To Tengboche + Monastery Visit
The next morning my eyes felt much better, though still a bit dry. Arjun instructed myself and another team member, who had experienced the same issue, to keep our sunglasses on all day and to be extra cautious in the sun. The weather was gorgeous and the views were breathtaking as we made our way from Pheriche to Tengboche. It was a stunning trail, lined with colourful prayer flags and stupas, offering incredible views of Ama Dablam along the way. When we reached Tengboche, we enjoyed a refreshing mango juice and lunch consisting of some delicious pizza and chips. We had the chance to visit the Tengboche Monastery, passing through a magnificent gate adorned with beautiful paintings and sculptures. Inside, photography wasn’t allowed, which gave us the opportunity to fully absorb the beauty of the space. The monastery was mesmerising, a truly sacred place. Arjun shared the history of the temple with us and explained the meanings behind the murals on the walls – an amazing insight to have.
Back To Namche Bazaar
After leaving the monastery, we continued towards Namche Bazaar. We walked through forests as the sun shone through the trees, and it ended up being quite an easy day on the trail. We arrived in Namche just as it got dark. That evening, after dinner, we celebrated the trek at the highest Irish bar in the world. We played pool, danced to Diana Ross, and had a fantastic time!
Stay tuned for Part 5!
