Overview
We are the only company in the world who have an expedition leader and doctor on all Peak Lenin (7,134m) expeditions while keeping group sizes sustainably small. Established in 2007, we offer high altitude trekking and mountaineering in some of the most breath-taking locations around the world.
Climbing Peak Lenin
Peak Lenin (7,134m) is located in the Pamir Range on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and the second highest peak in Kyrgyzstan after Peak Pobeda (7,439,). Peak Lenin, Peak Pobeda, Ismoli Somoni (7,495m), Korzhenevsky (7,105m) and Khan Tengri (7,010m) are the five 7000m peaks located in the former USSR. To summit all five awarded one the title of ‘Snow Leopard’ which is the highest award for climbing in the former Soviet Union.
Peak Lenin is often referred to as the world’s easiest 7,000m peak and is technically no harder than Elbrus or Mont Blanc. However, the complexities of proper acclimatisation, high winds, extreme cold and a long summit day make Peak Lenin a formidable challenge. Our 23-day itinerary allows for good acclimatisation and has the flexibility to accommodate bad weather, maximising your chances of reaching the summit. As well as this, we will be roped in for this entire route.
Peak Lenin is easily accessible from Osh with base camp (3,600m) being only a half day’s drive away. The entire route is stunningly beautiful and each day offers something different, from the beautiful meadow of base camp to the glaciated crevasses. The upper mountain offers amazing views of surrounding landscape and those to the south into Tajikistan are particularly impressive.
In the event that we finish the expedition on schedule, we will then enjoy our extra time in the warm air of Osh. Whether you choose to enjoy some retail therapy or relax and enjoy Kyrgyzstan’s second largest city, the choice is yours!
Please note that the following plan is very much subject to change based on weather conditions and the health and fitness of all expedition members.
Peak Lenin Expedition Costs & What’s Included
The total cost of climbing Peak Lenin is highlighted above. You are required to pay a €399 deposit to secure your spot. A part payment of €1,000 is due six months prior to departure. You can pay the remaining balance by instalments or in full. All fees must be paid three months prior to departure.
Your fees include the following:
- Return International flights from Dublin to Istanbul & Osh (Economy Class) (UK flights not included)
- All transport in Kyrgyztan
- Experienced expedition leader
- Experienced expedition doctor
- Training Weekend/Day
- Earth’s Edge team of guides, cooks and support team
- All accommodation based on twin sharing in hotels & camping for the duration.
- All meals and drinking water except in Osh where accommodation is based on B&B
- A celebratory dinner
- All transport throughout the expedition
- All group gear consisting of first aid kits, mountaineering equipment, cooking equipment etc.
Flying from the UK?
You are more than welcome to join us from the UK. If so, you can select the ‘exclude flights’ option on the checkout. You can then book your own international flights to Osh.
Read our Peak Lenin blogs
Do you fancy having more information on this expedition? We have lots of extra insight into our Peak Lenin trips here.
Itinerary
Day 2
Istanbul to Osh (1,000m).
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Enjoy a free day to explore Istanbul at your leisure. In the evening we take an overnight flight and arrive in Osh in the early morning. Most of the day is free to relax or explore Osh. Later in the day we will have an expedition briefing.
Overnight hotel.
Day 3
Drive Osh to Base Camp (3,600m).
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After breakfast we drive to Achik-Tash base camp. It’s a 280km journey and takes between four and six hours depending on the condition of the road. In the afternoon we will go for a short hike around base camp.
Day 4
Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,100m). 5 hrs trekking
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We start the process of acclimatisation and stretch the legs along the trail towards Camp 1. It’s a really scenic hike as we pass groves of onion, a beautiful waterfall and enjoy nice views of the Lenin glacier. It takes about three hours to reach the pass and 90 minutes to return to Base Camp. It’s quite likely we will see Marmot as well as local horsemen on their way to Camp 1.
Day 5
Base Camp to Camp 1 (4,200m). 7/8 hrs trekking.
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Today we return to the Puteshestvennikov Pass and continue onwards to Camp 1. The route climbs along the moraine adjacent to the impressive Lenin Glacier. We cross a stream which can be more like a river if the weather is hot and the glacier is melting!! As we approach Camp 1 we can see climbers on the impressive route to Camp 2. At Camp 1 there are fixed tents, a mess tent, three hot meals a day, a generator for charging cameras, a shower of sorts and limitless tea and coffee. 5 stars compared to camps 2 and 3!!
Day 7
Acclimatisation hike. 6 hrs trekking
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Today we take an acclimatisation hike up Yukhin Peak located close to Camp 1. It's not glaciated so mountaineering boots are not required. Depending on how people are feeling we may or may not reach the summit, the primary goal of the day is acclimatisation.
Day 8
Skills training Lenin Glacier (4,600m). 5 hrs
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After breakfast we will ascend the Lenin Glacier to 4600m which is the first quarter of the route to camp 2. During the day those with less experience will learn how to move on snow and ice effectively as we experience being roped up and cross some of the smaller crevasses on the route. We return to camp 1 for lunch and spend the afternoon packing for our first trip to the upper mountain.
Day 9
Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5300m). 8 to 10 hrs
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Apart from summit day our first trip to Camp 2 is the hardest on the expedition. The route is heavily glaciated and avalanche-prone, so special care is needed when selecting what time to start the ascent. It takes about an hour to cross the moraine and flat part of the glacier to the point where we put on crampons and rope up. From there the route climbs steadily through some stunning terrain. We cross deep crevasses, snow bridges and in some conditions ladders and fixed rope are needed. After roughly 900 metres of ascent the route traverses to the right to reach Camp 2. It's a very tough but rewarding day.
Day 10
Carry Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6148m). 6 hr
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After yesterday's long day we have a shorter yet tough day today. From Camp 2 the first hour is very steep to reach the ridge below Razdelnaya peak. Once on the ridge the route is very gradual for about two hours. The last two hours are very steep to climb into Camp 3. Although we are on snow there is usually no need to rope up as the route is not glaciated. In Camp 3 we drop some gear, take some photos and then descend back to Camp 2.
Day 17
Summit day. 15 hours.
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Summit day on Peak Lenin is an extremely long and tough day. We start by descending for 100 metres from Camp 3 and then have a long 400 metre climb to reach the summit ridge. This whole section is typically completed before sunrise which can be a challenge for some people as it is difficult to stay warm. Once on the ridge there are two more significant steep sections, one of which is exposed and has fixed roped. Generally the summit ridge is very wide and undulating. There are several false summits before we reach Peak Lenin itself which is marked with a statue of the former leader and other memorials. The views from the summit, especially those to the south into Tajikistan with endless snow capped peaks including nearby giants, Ismoli Somoni (Communism Peak) and Korzhenevsky make all the effort worthwhile. It typically takes 10 hours to reach the summit and 5 hours to return to Camp 3. One needs strong physical and mental toughness to summit Peak Lenin.
Day 22
Drive to Osh.
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We drive back to Osh and check into the hotel. In the evening we go for a celebration meal in the city and then enjoy our first night in a bed in weeks! Overnight hotel.
Day 23
Osh to Dublin.
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We depart Osh on an early morning flight to Istanbul. We have a free day in Istanbul to relax at the airport hotel or explore the city. In the evening we board our second flight and arrive back in Dublin on the same day. Expedition ends.
Facts
Peak Lenin sits on the border of both Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It rises to 7,134m and is the second largest mountain in both countries. Peak Lenin is considered to be one of the less technical 7,000m peaks in the world. Hundreds of mountaineers summit Peak Lenin each year. Peak Lenin is the tallest mountain in the Trans-Alay Range of Central Asia, and in the Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan it is exceeded only by Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495 m).
Peak Lenin, Peak Pobeda, Ismoli Somoni (7,495m), Korzhenevsky (7,105m) and Khan Tengri (7,010m) are the five 7000m peaks located in the former USSR. To summit all five awarded one the title of ‘Snow Leopard’ which is the highest award for climbing in the former Soviet Union.
Best time to climb Peak Lenin?
We attempt to summit Peak Lenin in Summer. Temperatures on the expedition may vary from -10 to 30 degrees during the day and -30 to 10 degrees at night. It’s best to be prepared for lower temperatures due to wind chill or the weather turning bad. Usually the days are hot and the nights are cold. You should be ready for inclement weather at all times as the weather can change rather quickly at high altitude.
What do you need to climb Peak Lenin?
We have an extensive packing list on what you should bring with you when climbing Peak Lenin. You can view this packing list here.
How to prepare to climb Peak Lenin
We have classified Peak Lenin as a level 9 expedition, for more information about our levels system click here. The complexities of proper acclimatisation, high winds, extreme cold and a long summit day make Peak Lenin a formidable challenge. Although it is often referred to as the easiest 7000m peak in the world, Peak Lenin (7134m) is still extremely tough. The upper mountain is completely covered in snow and ice but none of the route can be described as technical. Although it is not essential, we recommend that all participants should have previous experience at high altitude (>5000m). Participants should have an extremely high level of fitness. It is your responsibility to contact us if you have any concerns regarding your level of fitness, health, or ability to complete the trek. We strongly recommend that you read the expedition itinerary in full before signing up to this challenge. In order to attain the fitness levels you will need to partake in this expedition, completing long hikes with a 20kg backpack for several days in a row should present no problems for you.
Certified B-Corp
Earth's Edge is a certified B-Corp. In fact, we are the highest scoring B-Corp in Ireland. We are passionate about sustainable travel, bettering the lives of the people connected with the company and minimising our environmental impact.
Tree Planting
We plant 8 native trees in Nepal for each person that travels with us in partnership with Eden Reforestation Projects. If you would like to plant more, please contact info@earths-edge.com. Each extra tree costs €0.75 cents. Learn more about our tree planting here.
